Train Travel, Back in Time
Clickety-clack, clickety-clack ... Imagine yourself travelling along the tracks on the Tasman Limited. Settle back for an informative ride.
(SOURCE: Along the Line, a travellers' guide for the Tasman Limited, printed by the Tasmanian Government Railways and many thanks to Margate Online Centre volunteer Len for typing this out!)
*****************************************************
"We welcome you aboard the Tasman Limited. We hope you will make full use of the facilities provided for your comfort and enjoyment and ask you to call upon members of the train staff for assistance and information. This guide is designed to help you appreciate more fully the most varied and beautiful scenery along the route of the Tasman, to inform you of the resources and production of the economic regions through which you pass and to recall for you something of Tasmania’s colourful past.
HOBART
Hobart, the southern terminal of the Tasman Limited, is the capital of Tasmania. Founded in 1804 when a party of troops and convicts landed to establish the first settlement, it has grown during the intervening century and a half to a flourishing city of 112.000.
MOUNT WELLINGTON
Towering above Hobart is Mount Wellington (4,166 feet). The view from its pinnacle has been acclaimed as one of the finest in the world. The first European to gaze on this magnificent panorama was George Bass, who with Matthew Flinders established that Tasmania was an island in 1798. Before them, men whose names are now legend in the saga of European discovery had visited the shores of Tasmania – Cook, Bligh, D’Entrecasteaux and Tasman, the name honoured above all others in Tasmania, who in 1642 was the first European to gaze on its rocky shores. Your train, as it gathers pace, honours his memory in its name and proudly presents Tasmania through the windows of the Tasman Limited.
The first vista you are seeing is of the Derwent Estuary. Twelve miles to the south is the entrance to the river, beyond that Storm Bay, flanked by Bruni Island to the west and to the east the distant hills of Tasman Peninsula, on whose southern shores are the ruins of Port Arthur, the convict penitentiary.
Transportation of convicts to Tasmania greatly influenced the political end economic life of the island for the first fifty years of its history till it was ceased in 1853. Much of the land you will pass through was cleared and first cultivated by convicts. Roads and bridges too on the route were built by them.
QUEEN'S DOMAIN
Turning north on the left is the Queen’s Domain. Immediately adjoining the line is the Regatta Ground where annually since 1838 Hobart has held its Regatta, the biggest aquatic carnival held in Australia. Below the line is Hobart’s Naval Depot and beside it is a slip yard where many of Tasmania’s blue-gum clippers were built. Ship building was a major industry in Tasmania during the last century and Tasmanian trading and whale ships were widely known on the oceans of the world. The yard is now run by the Hobart Marine Board – fishing boats, yachts, and the few remaining small coastal traders are slipped and repaired.
GOVERNMENT HOUSE
Set amongst parklands is Government House, the home of Tasmanian Governors since 1858. Its style and proportions reflect the taste and optimism of colonial Tasmania. Its beautiful grounds sweeping down to the line provide a beautiful setting for a more recent structure – the Hobart Bridge of novel design, consisting of a series of arched floating pontoons. Note the lift span which enables shipping to proceed up river to oil installations and industrial enterprises. It is planned to build a larger bridge which will replace the present structure. The bridge is an important link with Hobart’s eastern suburbs and the farm lands of south-eastern Tasmania. Adjoining Government House grounds are the Botanical Gardens. Leaving this parkland and entering Hobart’s northern suburbs you can see much evidence of Hobart’s relatively recent industrial development.
NEW TOWN
The largest industrial enterprise is partly visible as you leave New Town station. This is the Electrolytic Zinc Company’s works at Risdon. All zinc used in Australia is refined at these works and there is a surplus available for export, the bulk of this going to the United States. By-products include metallic cadmium, zinc base die cast alloy, zinc dust, zinc sulphate and cobalt. Superphosphate is manufactured and a special plant supplies over half of Australia’s requirements of sulphate of ammonia. Employing over 3000 people, this enterprise has been responsible for much of the suburban development of Moonah and Glenorchy.
RISDON COVE
Across the Derwent from the Zinc Works, but hidden from your view, is Risdon Cove where the first settlement was attempted in 1803. It was abandoned in favour of Hobart, within a few months. Though the trees are sparser, the cove has altered little during the century and a half.
DERWENT PARK
Industrial activity is also in evidence at Derwent Park. Munition factories were established here during the second World War. It is now the centre of a high quality textile industry, Silk and Textile, producing silks, cottons, and nylons. Adjoining Derwent Park are the Show Grounds and beyond them Elwick Racecourse.
CADBURYS in CLAREMONT
Some nine miles from Hobart and beyond its northern suburbs Montrose and Claremont is the garden factory of Cadbury-Fry-Pascall. Set on this beautiful 300-acre promontory, Cadbury’s is the largest chocolate making enterprise in the Commonwealth. Other products include cocoa, confectionery and food drinks. Beyond the parkland approaches are high class staff facilities, including tennis courts, football and cricket grounds and a golf course. Cadbury’s insatiable demand for milk has given great impetus to the State’s dairying industry. Much of the milk used is transported from the rich lands of the North-West Coast.
GRANTON
As the train skirts along the Derwent and approaches Granton you will be able to catch glimpses of black swans and ducks which have flocked to the sanctuary established on the river.
If you are interested in old buildings look out for an old coach inn at Granton before the train turns on to the Bridgewater causeway. Now a service station, this old inn is one of the many still standing on the highway to Launceston. In the days of coaches the horse teams were changed every ten miles, thus making it possible to maintain a speed of ten miles an hour – slow by modern standards, but highly efficient one hundred years ago.
BRIDGEWATER
The Bridgewater causeway was constructed by convict labour in the 1830’s. The high-level lift span is a recent addition to enable shipping to proceed to the Australian Newsprint Mills at Boyer, four miles up river. This mill has the unique distinction of being the first in the world to produce newsprint from hardwood. The process was developed by scientists in Tasmania. Its output is sold to all the principal newspapers of the Commonwealth. Its log supplies are drawn from the mountain forests of the Upper Derwent which the company is roading, protecting and reforesting.
DERWENT VALLEY
Beyond the distant hills the Derwent Valley continues to its source, Lake St. Clair. This beautiful lake is at the southern end of the Cradle Mountain Reserve. The grandeur and beauty of its mountain scenery attracts hundreds of bush walkers each year. To the west of the Derwent another national Park in the Mount Field area provides excellent facilities for skiing, bush walking and mountain climbing. The Upper Derwent Valley is a rich agricultural and pastoral area. Chief products are wool, beef cattle, fat lambs, hops and berry fruits. With the Derwent Valley left behind at Bridgewater, you are now travelling in an easterly direction to cross the divide between the Derwent and Coal Rivers, which explains the numerous curves and relatively steep gradients. The Brighton-Tea Tree area is the southern boundary of the major sheep lands of Tasmania. A narrow region of high density of sheep per acre runs from Bridgewater to Westbury and for the next 130 miles you will be travelling for most of the time through country which carries over half of Tasmania’s 2.2 million sheep.
COAL VALLEY and RICHMOND
As the Tasman winds its way down to the Coal River Valley you can see away to the south the small township of Richmond. This is one of Tasmania’s oldest towns in which stands Australia’s oldest bridge still in use and the oldest Roman Catholic church. The countryside around Richmond was once the granary for the colony and wheat was exported to New South Wales. Though some wheat is still grown, the district is now a mixed farming one with emphasis on sheep and dairy cattle. Relatively little wheat is grown these days in Tasmania. The crop is mainly milled for biscuit making, but a proportion is grown for pig and poultry food.
COLEBROOK
Near the head of Coal River Valley is Colebrook. This small town is the centre of a thriving rural community; its rich farms specialising in wool, fat lambs, dairying and beef cattle. Note the remains of a pit head of a coal mine just outside the town. This is one of the many small coal seams occurring in isolated areas in eastern Tasmania. Most, like this one, are not worked.
As the Tasman climbs over the steep sides of the river valley to the ¾ -mile tunnel at Rhyndaston the wooded range of hills to the right hides the east coast from your view. Thirty miles away to the south east, Tasman effected a landing and claimed his discovery for Holland. Today sheep and cattle are pastured along the coastal plains and foothills. Fishing fleets from Dunalley and Triabunna reap a rich harvest of crayfish, barracouta, cod, flathead, trumpeter, whilst the mild warm climate, numerous beaches and beautiful scenery make it a most popular holiday resort.
These wooded hills recall the problems of the early settlers, for it was through this country that Tasmania’s only military campaign was waged. The hunted foe was the remnant of the original native population. From the first settlement until 1830 racial relationships steadily deteriorated to the point where outlying settlers lived in daily fear of native attacks. After various policies had failed a desperate scheme was launched to corner the natives on Forestier’s Peninsula by means of lines of advancing troops, settlers and convicts. Over 2000 men formed the line but the venture proved quite impracticable and the only capture was one old incapacitated native.
THE MIDLANDS
On emerging from Rhyndaston Tunnel you are entering the eastern part of the Midlands region. Extending north to Campbell Town and west to Lake St. Clair it is of varied topography – mountain landforms in the west, a high central plateau and the undulating landform through with the line runs. The whole region is sparsely populated, and the outstanding geographical feature is the lake country. Waters from the Great Lake, Lake King William, Lake St. Clair and Lake Echo have been used by the Hydro-Electric Commission to develop reliable and cheap electric power, the basis of Tasmania’s industrial development. The Lakes area is a popular resort for anglers and scenic roads are popular tourist attractions.
PARATTAH
The highest point of the line, 1460 feet, is reached just before reaching Parattah, a native word meaning frost. Around Parattah is a rich agricultural district of small mixed farms. One of the important crops is potatoes. The pastoral land unfolding before you after leaving Parattah is typical lower midland countryside. Some fifty years ago most of this country was rough grazing land. The use of tractors, the introduction of pasture improvements and the subdivision of large estates has greatly increased its carrying capacity. To the westward can be seen a flat topped mountain, Table Mountain, 3562 feet. Just to its north, but of course hidden from your view, are Lakes Sorell and Crescent. These are popular fishing resorts.
TUNBRIDGE and ROSS
At Tunbridge you are entering the main wool growing area – it extends north to Longford. The main breeds of sheep are Polworth, Corriedale and Merino. Only about ten per cent of the flocks are pure Merinos. Superfine Merino wool has in recent years established world record prices. Many graziers have lake runs on the central plateau; these are used for summer grazing in conjunction with the homestead properties.
These midland districts are rich in historical associations with Tasmania’s past. After leaving Tunbridge watch out for Mona Vale to the right of the track. Probably Australia’s finest country home, it was built by Robert Kermode in 1868 at a cost of ₤40.000. It is known as the Calendar House because of its 365 windows, 7 entrances, 52 rooms and 12 chimneys. Royalty has been entertained here. Ross was in the early days an important military station. Soldiers stationed here were kept busy protecting settlers and travellers from attacks by bushrangers and natives. You can see a beautiful example of colonial architecture as you cross the railway bridge at Ross. Look to the left to the old sandstone bridge. An unusual feature is the beautiful carving performed by an unknown sculptor, probably a convict.
CAMPBELL TOWN
Campbell Town is the chief centre of the Northern Midlands. Surrounding it are many properties which have helped in developing Australia’s flocks of fine and superfine merinos. Mrs. John Furlonge, “the mother of Victoria’s wool industry,” had property here. Campbell Town is the scene each year of the oldest sheep show in the British Commonwealth, the first show being held in 1839. The sheep shown are some of the world’s finest fine-wool sheep; the leading merino stud is at the Taylor property at Valleyfield, whose wool has created several world record prices.
Nine miles from Campbell Town is Conara Junction where you will note a branch line. This runs eastwards along the valley of the South Esk to the coal mining town of St. Marys. The mountain range you can see dominating the area is the /ben Lomond massif – the highest peak is Legge’s Tor (5160 feet). These mountains are popular resorts for winter sports. To the west you will see the Western Tiers which will form a magnificent background for the next sixty miles of your journey. This imposing rampart is the northern extent of the Central Plateau. The Hydro-Electric Commission is surveying a scheme which will lead the waters of Great Lake down the precipitous
The explanation for the abrupt change of scenery and vegetation you are observing after leaving Conara Junction is the change in the type of soil. The brown soils of the Midlands have been replaced by podsols, the most common type in Tasmania. It can be distinguished by its ashy grey colour and its texture. You may be able to note another change in soil type after through Evadale where a pocket of black soil extends to the Tamar.
At Western Junction is our branch line to the North West Coast. Beside the station is the Launceston Airport: it was here that Victor Holyman began Tasmania’s airline company in 1932 running a service to King Island. From this small beginning grew the erstwhile Australia-wide company, Australian National Airways now Ansett A.N.A.
We now leave the Main Line, which extends for eleven miles to Launceston, the second city of Tasmania. Set on the banks of the Tamar it is a busy commercial centre and has a number of large textile factories. A power station near Launceston supplies power to the Bell Bay aluminium plant near the mouth of the Tamar. It is the only plant producing aluminium ingot in the Southern Hemisphere. The Tamar valley is the principal fruit growing area of Northern Tasmania, the main crops being apples and pears.
Leaving Western Junction you can now look forward to a journey of diverting variety. As we travel westward for the first fifteen miles through Perth and Longford we are still in the major sheep lands. The district around these towns and at Cressy eight miles to the south were settled very early. There can be few districts in Australia with so many of the old homes still being occupied by the descendents of the original settlers. Some of the most well-known properties are Wooolmers, a few a few moles south of Longford on the Macquarie River, still owned by the Archers, the first settlers: Panshanger, south of Woolmers: Brickendon, near Longford: and Connorville at Cressy, the home of the O’Connors, where Her Majesty the Queen and the Duke Of Edinburgh stayed during their visit to Tasmania in 1954. Subdivision had reduced the size of many of the old properties – there has been a number of soldier settlements in the area. In addition to its sheep and cattle, this beautiful countryside is one of the most important agricultural Ares of the State, chief crops being wheat, oats, barley and peas.
HAGLEY
You will observe a gradual change in the character of the countryside as Hagley is approached. The smaller paddocks and the lusher pastures are due to heavier rainfall – Hagley’s rainfall is 33 inches, Longford’s 25 inches. The English type of scenery of small paddocks bordered by hawthorns and may trees is typical of the countryside to Deloraine and surrounding districts. Amidst its beautiful setting Hagley is one of Tasmania’s most charming towns. Beneath the lofty lofty spire of St Mary’s Anglican Church Sir Richard Dry is buried – the first native-born Premier of Tasmania, who died in office in1869. Just to the east of Hagley, but hidden from view, is Quamby, once his property. Looking south you will see two mountains in the Western Tiers which perpetuate his memory – to the left Dry’s Bluff (4,257 feet) and further to the west Quamby’s bluff (4,200 feet). Just beyond Westbury another famous property “Westfield” stretches away to the left. This was the home of the Fields from 1825 to 1949: the original Field ran over 10, 000 head of cattle over the uncleared and unoccupied country to the westward.
In the distance, past the western end of the Wester Tiers, Cradle Mountain (5, 070 feet) and Barn Bluff (5,114 feet) can be distinguished. `This is the northern end of the Cradle-Mountain Lake St. Clair National Park. further to the right standing isolated and imposing is Mt. Roland (4,070 feet). At Dunorlan you can see the beginnings of the rich chocolate soil which occurs very generally along the coastal plains of the North West Coast which we are to reach by the way of the Mersey River Valley which the Tasman crosses near Dunorlan.
Approximately 8 miles to the West of Railton is the Sheffield district, a very rich farming district specialising in dairying, potatoes, wheat, oats and barley. Few districts in Tasmania called for pioneering enterprise. The first settlers of the 1860’s had to carve their farms out of dense timber. Most of Railton’s population earn their livelihood from Goliath Portland Cement Company’s works. Local limestone is used to produced cement and cement sheeting.
DELORAINE
If you are a lover of horses or a follower of the turf, Deloraine is a town of interest for if you look south after crossing the Meander River you can see in the distance the famous old home. “Calstock, ” also until recently a Field property Here was bred Tasmania’s most famous racing sire, Maula. For a time Maula raced in the colours of Thomas Reibey of Entally, another famous property just west of Launceston and now a National Home. The large estates around Deloraine have disappeared and have been replaced by small mixed farms running dairy and beef cattle, fat lambs and cultivating potatoes, wheat, oats and barley.
Leaving Deloraine we are now beginning to head northwards towards the coast. At Lemana junction a branch line runs to Mole creek, a rich agricultural district and the site of some magnificent limestone caves, which are a great tourist attraction.
LATROBE
Latrobe on the Mersey, is the first of the towns of the North-West Coast, being named in 1846 after the Administrator of the Colony, Charles Latrobe, who was afterwards the first Governor of Victoria. Latrobe was first a port, small trading vessels berthing at a wharf just beyond the railway bridge over the Mersey. In time silting made navigation impossible and Devonport replaced Latrobe as the port for the district. The town has an active Tourist Association; one of its most successful efforts is Bell’s Parade, an attractive park on the river bank. The annual Henley-on-Mersey, one of Tasmania’s most colourful festivals, is held here. There are extensive deposits of shale oil around Latrobe. For a time these were worked commercially but proved uneconomic. There are numerous other mineral deposits along the North-West coast – these include coal in the Mersey Valley from Railton to Devonport; titanium between Forth and Ulverstone; bauxite at Penguin; iron ore and copper in the Penguin and Burnie districts and silver lead at Penguin. Though the coal deposit alone is mined at Spreyton, geological surveys continue.
Having crossed the Mersey you cross a small creek whose name, Ballahoo, excites the curiosity of most travellers. This odd name was given to the flats around it by the original settler, an Irishwoman, Lucinda Moriarty. Balla is Irish for a town and although a small coalmining settlement was established its life was short and the name alone remains as a memory of the pioneer Irishwoman.
Continuing down the river, the apple and pear orchards through which you are passing at Spreyton make this the only fruit growing area on the coast. Beyond the orchards is a group of modern factories at Quoiba, a suburb of Devonport, milk being processed at the most imposing Ovaltine plant and a wide variety of vegetables at Gordon Edgells and Sons. Peas canned and frozen, are the most important product, some seven million pounds being processed each season. These processing plants have proved a great boon to farmers who are assured of a guaranteed market and stable prices. Extensive developments in this industry seem certain.
DEVONPORT
As the Tasman winds its way down the last beautiful reaches of the Mersey, Devonport ‘s port and busy commercial centre unfold before you. Large overseas ships can berth at its wharves, and at East Devonport is the terminal for the Bass Strait car ferry: “Princess of Tasmania.” Major extensions are clearly visible; these will greatly increase the capacity of the harbour. Industries include Tootal-Broadhurst-Lee’s textile plant and a butter factory. On a sandbar to the east of Mersey Heads can be seen the rusty remains of the wreck of the steam dredge “Agnew.” Built in 1887 and wrecked in 1939, she has a niche in Tasmanian history for she was the first iron vessel built in the colony. Though hidden from your view, there is an excellent surf beach to the west of the heads.
A few miles beyond Devonport there are a few traces of another abandoned settlement. As the train crosses the high bridge over the Don River you will see a few English trees by the river bank. This is all that remains of the little port once established here.
As the Tasman makes the long, steep haul up the Don Hill amidst the rich countryside, it is an appropriate time to specify the main products of the coastal farm lands. The north-western region is Tasmania’s principal dairying area, having over half the State’s 100,000 dairy cows; it grows the bulk of potato crop, runs about a third of Tasmania’s 113,000 beef cattle and is one of the main fat lamb raising areas. Vegetable and fodder crops are extensively grown. Production will further increase when the major land development schemes beyond Wynyard are completed.
As we descend again to the coastal plain and cross the Forth River at Leith, note the beautiful wide stretches of beaches which extend to the Leven – they are most popular holiday resorts.
ULVERSTONE
At Ulverstone we are in a fast-growing commercial centre and port serving the extensive farming districts extending over fifteen miles inland. The large object of unusual design to the left of the station is the town’s war memorial. International Canners have a very efficient vegetable processing plant here producing canned and frozen products. There are also butter and furniture making factories.
For the rest of our journey the Tasman skirts along the coastline many of the small rocky bays you will see fish traps of various designs. However, most of the fish caught in this part of Bass Strait are summer shoals of barracouta which appear in these waters for a few months during the summer. Penguin is the commercial centre for the Riana far district. Beyond it at the heads of the Blythe River, the modern factory overlooking the sea is the plant of Australian Titan Products manufacturing titanium oxide for the Australian paint industry.
BURNIE
Entering Burnie on the Emu River, another major industry dominates the skyline. Within the yellow walls of these extensive buildings Associated Pulp and Paper Mills manufacture fine writing and printing, board for cartons and building board. Its timber supplies obtained from an extensive concession which extends south to the Pie River Valley.
As you pass the Paper Mill watch out on the left for the buildings closely linked with Burnie’s development as the major port on the coast. They are the offices and railway yards of Tasmania’s major private railway company, the Emu Railway Company, by the small stone building housing the offices of the Van Diemen’s Land Company. The E.B.R. as it is called, links Burnie with Zeehan, once a great silver- mining town of the west coast. Zeehan’s boom days brought people and business to Burnie. Today the railway serves newer mining fields – The Mount Farrell Mine at Tullah producing silver-lead ores at the Electrolytic Zinc Company’s mine at Rosebery, zinc and lead ores. The V.D.L. Company has a much earlier association with Burnie’s past An English company formed in 1825, it was granted 50,000 acres along the coast beyond Burnie, where Stanley was established as company’s headquarters. Though it was not a successful commercial venture – most of its original grant has now been sold - the company’s officers and surveyors played an important part in opening up the coast to the settlement.
Leaving Burnie, the last section of our journey lies before us. At Somerset we are reminded of another Tasmanian minefield once world famous, the site of abandoned Mt Bischoff mine, once the world’s richest tin mine.
WYNYARD
Wynyard, the northern terminal of Tasman Limited, is the centre of a rapidly expanding farming district. With its conveniently placed airport, its excellent accommodation facilities and its attractive settings it is a most popular tourist centre.
From Wynyard you may journey to nearby Boat Harbour, one of Tasmania’s most beautiful beach resorts; to Stanley an old world town beneath awe-inspiring Circular Head; to the rich farmlands around Smithton, and to the West Coast at Marrawah.
THE END
[ comment on this story ]
|
Comments:
back in time
Well done!!
I am glad to see there are others that are interested in traveling back in time, I have been putting together Maydena's History it has opened my eyes to the challange's and hard work our ancesstors had to do to make our current life as it is today!
Keep up the good work !
P.S I have some interesting photos of the early Railway in the Derwent Valley fom the ANM logs If I can Help call me Geoff Williams 62882232 or Email: WWW.Maydena@tco.asn.au
|
|
 |
|
|
Other Articles
|
